The Art and Science of Formulation—Why There’s No One-Size-Fits-All in Hair

Let’s talk about formulation. I know, everyone wants the magic formula they saw on Instagram. But here’s the truth: there is no one-size-fits-all. You can’t just copy what worked for someone else and expect it to look the same on your client.

Every Head of Hair is Unique

Every client who sits in your chair brings a different starting point. Underlying pigment, hair texture, skin tone, lifestyle—all of it matters. You have to look at where you’re starting, where you want to go, and what’s in between. Sometimes you can’t even plan the whole process at the start. You have to see how the hair lifts, how it reacts, and adjust as you go.

And don’t get me started on inspiration photos. That gorgeous, dimensional color on Pinterest? It might look totally different on your client, depending on their hair and how they style it. Be honest with your clients about what’s possible, and explain why you’re making the choices you are. Personalize everything—developer, product, technique—based on their needs and goals.

The Math of Hair

Think of formulation like a math problem. What are you starting with? What’s your end goal? And what’s the “problem” in the middle that you need to solve? Sometimes you can do it all in one step. Sometimes you need to break it up, see how the hair responds, and adjust your plan. Don’t assume that just because a client has always used the same toner, it’ll work the same way every time. Hair changes. People change. Medications, lifestyle, even the weather can affect the result.

Personalization is Key

Formulation is part science, part art, and a whole lot of communication. The more you explain, the more your client understands and trusts you. And that’s how you do great hair—not just “the hair.”

Be honest about what’s possible, and don’t be afraid to say no if a client’s request isn’t realistic. Sometimes the best thing you can do is explain why something won’t work, and offer an alternative that will. Your clients will appreciate your honesty, and it builds trust.

The Power of Education

Educate your clients about what you’re doing and why. Explain the process, the products, and the maintenance. Show them how to style their hair at home, and recommend products that will help them keep their color and cut looking fresh. The more your clients know, the more confident they’ll feel—and the more likely they are to come back.

Formulation isn’t just about mixing color in a bowl. It’s about understanding your client, their hair, and their goals. It’s about being flexible, creative, and willing to adjust your plan as you go. And most of all, it’s about building a relationship based on trust, honesty, and communication.